We boarded that plane four years ago this weekend, the same day Katrina hit my home state. As we walked away from my parents in the airport, me in my new brown flats and holding my three-week-new husband's hand, I sucked back the tears long enough for them to scan me for metal. As soon as I got to the bathroom, I lost it. But I pulled it together and boarded the plane, like a proud queen heading to the gallows, like a skydiver jumping into the dark below.
We had two large, refrigerator-size suitcases each, plus a backpack and a carry-on suitcase, one each, for a total of six suitcases and two stuffed backpacks. Two weeks before we had sold all our other worldly possessions at a garage sale, including my favorite antique purple velvet armchair for $60 (I regret that now), and my husband's old Buick for $700. We had a total of $1500 in our pockets, which we transferred to about 800 pounds at Heathrow. The excitement of being there dulled the shock of the trasfer rate.
We piled everything we owned in the world into the back of our hired van and rode into the city, chatting the whole way. A black taxi with a "Visit Mississippi" ad passed us on the highway. We both gasped and then laughed at the same time-- I'll never forget that.
There's an alley called St. Christopher's Place, perpendicular to Oxford Street just across the road from the Bond Street tube station. You wouldn't know the entrance was there unless you were searching-- the crowds around the H&M and Disney Store tend to hide it from view. After a narrow entrance, it opens up to several stores, unique restaurants, and wonderful pubs and cafes. It's one of my favorite parts of the city, and not just because we spent our first week in London in a studio flat in that alley above both an Egyptian and an Italian eatery.There's no driving on St. Christopher's, so the van dropped us off at its other entrance on Wigmore. I sat on the suitcases there outside the coffee shop, watching both tourists and city-dwellers stroll by, while my husband wandered down the alley looking for our temporary flat. Finally I saw him wave and he disappeared inside. A couple minutes later he appeared, strode down the cobblestones toward me, grabbed one big and one small suitcase and headed back to the flat, only mumbling a little about flights of stairs. A waitress at the cafe offered to watch our suitcases if I wanted to go with him, but I played the smart tourist and simply said no, thank you. Two trips later we had settled in our tiny but modern studio.
We slept most of the first day, trying to overcome the stress of the move and the stress of a six-hour time change. When we woke up we found the Subway/internet cafe around the corner on Oxford, and while we nibbled on familiar food, we searched the internet looking for news on Katrina. I couldn't get in touch with my parents. I knew they were fine-- we live far enough from the coast, but I was worried about the house and our pets who had been left outside as my parents got caught and had to stay in Memphis overnight, where we flew out. I was finally able to talk to them nearly three days later, and other than a tree destroying my grandfather's garage, they all survived intact, thank goodness. It wasn't until a month later that I found out my best friend's mom lost her house in New Orleans completely-- luckily they had evacuated-- and that my friends on our coast had been without power and water for a month and had to buy a gun to keep themselves safe at night.
I had already made some notes before we left on realtors and others we could talk to about permanently renting a flat, but searching on the internet is so much different than searching in person. The woman at the foreign student housing office we visited set us up to see a couple apartments. After the first three I knew we had problems with these folks. The realtor piled us in his car, smoking out the window all the way to the first flat. I can't remember now... was it in Islington? He told us we shouldn't walk too far alone after dark and that the sloping floors were only cosmetic. The flat in Finchley Road reminded me of a hotel room from a horror movie, complete with unknown dark carpet stains. And the basement "one bedroom" in Bayswater was smaller than my closet at home.
Our flat is the salmon-colored one in the middle, the main floor. The Paddington tube station is about a block beyond those tress.But we fell in love with the Bayswater/Paddington area because of the beautiful architecture, all the amenities, and the easy transportation from there to my school, and we focused our search there. I felt a tickle in my throat that third afternoon as another realtor showed us the studio in Paddington, a block and a half from the tube station. It was small (minuscule is more appropriate probably), and quite dirty, but fixable, and it at least had a wall between the "living" area and the sleeping area, if no door. We told him we'd think about it and wanted to see a few more before we committed to such a tiny, dirty place for nearly 900 pounds a month. You do the math to convert that to dollars there. We were running out of options, though.
That night I began to cough. By the morning I couldn't speak, my throat was on fire, and I was throwing up from swallowing so much phlegm. After a quick trip to the Boots for medicine for me, my brave husband left me, feverish and shivering in bed, to see a couple more flats on his own. I laid there and listened to the accordion player and Italian singers who walked St. Christopher's place every day, serenading the tourists, while fading in and out of consciousness and waiting on his return.
When he did finally return, I knew from the look on his face we were doomed. We phoned up the realtor with the Paddington flat and signed away our next six months to him. We had to travel all the way down to South Lambeth Road later that week to pay our deposit to our hardware store-owning landlord (soon to be known as our slumlord), but at least we had a place to live, and electricity and water were included.
It was a good thing they were included, as it turns out in London you have to have a bank account before you can sign up for anything else (cable, phone, internet) and you have to have a job before you can get a bank account, even if you're a student with a five figure loan waiting to be transferred over. Next time I'll tell the story of Usman Hameed, my night in shining-Barclays uniform.










